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An incredible record of woodworking plans and howtos. Very minimum ebook, with ample content material.
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Operating wooden, no longer Machining It
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Extra info for 6,500 Woodworking Projects
Complicating this process even further is the fact that the shoulders have to be undercut so that they form a sharp knifelike edge. This is necessary so the shoulders make tight contact with the round base. Maintaining an accurate alignment along the full 5 1/4" length of these shoulders is very tricky, but not as tricky as cutting the face of the dovetail. This cut begins on the end grain of the leg and, like the shoulder, was a full 5 1/4" long. The saw delights in wandering to one side. After having made several of these stands with hand-cut sliding dovetails, I'm ready to suggest some alternatives.
This photo shows the structural parts of the stool. Assemble the splined and mitered frame. When the glue has dried, glue the triangular glue blocks in each corner and screw them into place. Take exact measurements for the screw strips and cut and install the strips. The top of the footstool is a piece of 5/8" wood stock on which a piece of 1/2" foam padding has been placed. This is held in place by upholstery cloth wrapped around the top and stapled underneath. Turn four screws up through the screw strips into the bottom side of the top to hold it in place.
But there are few such pieces and many that are commonly (and usefully) referred to as Chippendale. Another approach reserves the Chippendale name for those pieces that are exact representations of his published drawings. But this, too, is very limiting, particularly when discussing furniture made in North America. While there are a handful of American-made pieces which accurately represent specific Chippendale designs, the overwhelming majority of American-made Chippendale furniture does not—for some very good reasons.